Each bun is supposed to have exactly 18 pleats and look like 'a chrysanthemum in bloom'. The name went from mocking to legendary, and Empress Dowager Cixi reportedly praised the buns after Yuan Shikai had them sent to court.
Tianjin bun shop founded 1858 by Gao Guiyou, nicknamed 'Dog' (狗子) as a child. His shop got so busy he had no time to answer customers — hence 'Dog doesn't bother (with you)', 狗不理. A certified China Time-Honored Brand (中华老字号).
