Pork, often belly, salted and then air-dried or smoked until hard; smoked pieces turn dark. Sliced and steamed, or stir-fried with garlic shoots, bamboo shoots or bitter melon, above all in Hunan and Sichuan.
腊 refers to the 12th lunar month (腊月), when families traditionally salt-cured and air-dried pork to preserve it for winter. Hunan and Sichuan versions are smoked; Cantonese 腊肉 is sun-dried and sweet.